In the upper right-hand section of France, between Paris and Belgium sits the Ardennes. Apparently it’s been there for ages but for some reason I hadn’t noticed before. Now, after spending a long weekend there, I realise how foolish I’ve been. (I visited the Adrennes as part of a press trip. All opinions here are my own.)
As like many parts of France, the Ardennes is a great destination for family getaways. But one of the great benefits of holidaying here is how it can suit families with children ranging from babies to school age children to teens, with outdoor activities, historical interests and the best puppetry in the world (I’m not joking).
For those travelling with a teen, like I do, there are fun activities that will keep them occupied and excited. For families with younger kids, outings are easy to organise and manage, with flexibility in case it all goes south.
How to get to the Ardennes
Getting to the Ardennes is best done by train and the great thing about train travel in France is that you arrive not stressed out and harried but relaxed, having watched the world go by. You’ve been able to stretch your legs during the journey, easily chat with travel companions and avoid that boxed-in feeling of planes.
The main jumping off points for trains to the Charlevilles-Mézières station are Paris Gare de L’Est, Reims in Champagne, (easily accessible from Paris) and from Lille Flanders station.
We got there by travelling first to Lille Europe station, walking 5 minutes to the Lille Flanders station and then travelling direct to Charlevilles-Mézières. On our way back we went to Reims, in the heart of Champagne, to Paris l’Est, walking over to Gare du Nord and then straight on with a quick shot back to the Eurostar station in London.
When I mention these changes, I realise it might sound like a bit of a faff, but actually in both directions it was a short walk, with an opportunity to stop, have a coffee or a bite. Once at the station, finding and boarding the trains was easy. You will want to pack in your rolling suitcase and in Paris an online map can be helpful for the 7-minute walk (those Parisians and their directional signs) but I actually prefer the opportunity for a quick walk compared with a long wait in an airport lounge.
Check out the SNCF website for trains.
Get a tourist pass for the family
You can visit up to 10 leading attractions for the price of five, including the Musée Arthur Rimbaud, Musée de L’Ardenne, and the Château Fort de Sedan. http://gb.ardennes.com/home/discover/our-networks/ardennes-tourist-pass
Start by basing yourself in Charlevilles- Mézières
Plan to stay in Charlevilles-Mézières, the capital of the Ardennes department, with a population of 50,000. (Note that Ardenne without the S refers to the mountain range, Ardennes with the S is the French region. The official departement is called Champagne-Ardennes.) Allocate a day to exploring the city, which can do on foot.
Things to see and do in Charleville-Mézières
Stroll the Promenade the Place Ducale
Paris’s Place de Vosges is renown for its beauty. Place Ducale in the city is its sister square, built by the brother of the Place de Vosges architect. It is part of the inspired project of Charles de Gonzague, an Italian prince who created Charleville in 1606 and commissioned institutions for the city from schools to workers’ houses and invited people cast out from other cities (including thieves) to come.
The Place Ducale is a must-see — a harmonious, beautiful centrepiece of the city, built in ocher stone and red bricks topped with blue slates. Blue slates are one of the symbols of the city – you can take home a little piece of it by buying some of the chocolates that look like the tiny blue slates. I picked up mine at Maison Billard, a minute’s walk from the Place Ducale and a great place to have a hot chocolate, coffee or pastry.
TIP: In summer, it turns into the Plage Ducale – an urban beach with sand, deckchairs, palm trees and sport areas.
Experience the best puppetry in the world
When I first heard about the puppet festival in Charleville-Mézières I was intrigued – this is no simple kiddie production. The city is home to the world’s foremost marionette school (National Superior School Des Arts De La Marionnette), which has got to be one of the coolest art forms. Check out their website for events. Every 2 years the city hosts a world marionette festival with around 30 official main shows. It’s Edinburgh with strings attached in the best possible way. Overall more than 300 companies from places as far away as Brazil and Japan take part in some way, turning the cobbled streets into outdoor theatres. The festival gets so busy that the city organises home stays with visitors to accommodate the crowds, adding another cultural element to your stay.
TIP: Rewatch the puppetry in Being John Malkovich to get into the mood.
NOTE: Using the word ‘puppets’ around these folks can be like using the word ‘boat’ to describe a 150-foot megayacht. Tread carefully…as if lifted by small strings from above.
Institut International de la Marionette http://www.marionnette.com/en/
Festival Mondial des Theatres de Marionettes http://www.festival-marionnette.com/en/
Tour the Musée de L’Ardenne
Plan your arrival at the museum at the top of the hour to see the outdoor automated marionette display around the corner from the entrance. Throughout the day these short displays tell a story of the 4 sons Aymon, the legend of four brothers who defied the emperor Charlemagne – a story closely associated with the Ardennes. On Saturday nights all of the displays are played one after another to tell the whole story. Upstairs you can see the workings of the automated show as well as bones from a woolly mammoth, Celtic treasures, a very cool animal installation by artist Jean-Luc Parant, weaponry (including guns practically bigger than my arm span!) and a display of puppets ranging, from all around the world. Some of these performance art pieces are so delicate that they have to be rotated out of display to protect them from the sun.
31 Place Ducale, 08000 Charleville-Mézières
Get poetic with Arthur Rimbaud
The most famous citizen of Charlevilles-Mezieres has to be the French poet Arthur Rimbaud, who was born and buried here. He even still receives letters here, which is either at testament to the power of his work or an indictment of the speed of the French post office. Kids will love his rebel-artist backstory – he ran away to Paris and began producing influential poetry in his teens. One of his most celebrated works was written age 15. He led a libertine lifestyle, travelled the world and died young (age 37). The Musée Arthur Rimbaud doesn’t feature English translations, but it would be a great stop for those studying French or literature, especially if you read an English translation before your visit. Closed Mondays and lunchtimes. The Maison d’Arthur Rimbaud, the house where he grew up, is billed as an interpretation centre and is said to be an unusual and interesting place, especially if you consider that Rimbaud resented his mother and privately called Mouth of Darkness (bouche d’ombre). I might know a surly teen or two who can relate.
Musée Arthur Rimbaud
Quai Arthur Rimbaud
08000 Charleville-Mézières
http://musees-de-france-champagne-ardenne.culture.fr/musee1_rimbaud.html
Maison de Arthur Rimbaud
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&u=https://www.champagne-ardenne-tourism.co.uk/what-do/visiting/sites-visit/maison-d-arthur-rimbaud-maison-des-ailleurs-216626&prev=search
Shop comics at Plume et Bulle
They say a picture is worth a thousands words and here you can get both. Plume et Belle is a 2-storey comic book shop with sections for manga, sci-fi, fantasy, graphic novels, vinyl records and much more. Upstairs there’s a reading area. Downstairs there’s a café that serves lunch on what appears to be a French schedule (it was closed on the day we visited). Just outside the courtyard holding the comics shop is Chez Maman, an adorable café that looks ready-made for younger kids in need of a cake. Worth a detour. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
17 rue Irénée Carré
08000 Charleville-Mézières
https://www.plumeetbulle.fr/presentation/
Where to stay in Charleville-Mézières: Le Dormeur Du Val
This funky little hotel has 17 rooms and some of the nicest staff we’ve experienced in a while. There’s a bar, small sauna, free wifi, Tassimo machines in the rooms and bright décor. There’s a good breakfast with orange juice you can squeeze yourself, fresh baguettes, cereal, bacon, cheese, cold cuts, tarte au sucre adrennaise, and more.
Hô tel Le Dormeur du Val
32 bis rue de la Gravière
08000 Charleville Mezieres
https://hotel-dormeur-du-val.com/
IN THE ARDENNE
Canoe the Semoy river
It’s rare to find a canoeing or kayaking adventure that suits kids of all ages, but this is one. The Semoy – a smaller river that joins the larger Meus – is flat but with a brisk current and surrounded by green – not just on the banks and hillsides but underwater as well. Redoncule, a green grassy plant that grows only in clean water, waves underneath the surface in an almost hypnotic fashion as you glide over with your paddles. Thomas at Nautik Evasion outfitted us with lifejackets and canoes that fit up to 5 (2 adults, 3 children). We were swept along in some places; in others we stopped to take pictures of the gorgeously glassy surface reflecting the hills above. There are plenty of birds and plants to admire, including one swan we saw take off, its long neck stretched out above the river. As it landed, it created a noisy chug-chug-chug landing with its feet putting on the brakes. I can imagine my teen jumping in and floating downstream while I paddled behind her.
TIP: You can arrange trips that range from an hour to hour and a half to longer. Be sure to bring a change of clothes as we ended up with very wet bottoms. If you get out at Thilay, there are changing facilities.
Nautik Evasion
Rue du chateau d’eau
08800 Les Hautes-Rivieres
https://canoe-semoy.fr
Hike up to the La Roche à Sept Heures
The outlook at this beauty spot at Montherme is a photographer’s dream: it overlooks a bend in the Meuse river with the city spread out below and is said to be particularly beautiful at 7am. We went in the afternoon and it was still breathtaking so don’t worry if you can’t rouse everyone early. Make an outing of it by doing the 2.5 hour, 6km walk from the Monthermé tourist office. There are 8 different ‘stations’ at which you can enjoy the view over the Meuse. See if you can make out the four rocky crags on a peak near Bogny-sur-Meuse that symbolise the 4 Fils de Aymon on their magical steed Bayard.
TIP: Wear your trainers or sturdy sandals (not flip-flops) as it’s a scramble up to uneven rocky terrain, through a lightly wooded area.
Cycle the Trans-Adrennes cycle path
This has got to be one of the best reasons to visit the area and the best way to get outside and enjoy it. The Trans-Ardennes is a portion of the Meuse Cycle Route http://meusecycleroute.eu/ that stretches 1,000km (621 miles) from southern Champagne to the Hook of Holland. It’s flat, smooth, traffic-free and takes in marvellous scenery. Through Nautik Evasion you can rent bicycles, including those for children and trailers. Or take your pick of locomotion – roller-skates, horseback or just strolling. In our group of bloggers, we found ourselves imagining a cycle trip, going from town to town. You can go for 75 miles or just pedal along it for an hour like we did, stopping to take pictures or eat a packed lunch.
TIP: Look for the Voie Verte signs, which indicate easy cycling. Organise cycle hire through Nautik Evasion (listed above) or check out this link.
http://www.voiesvertes.com/htm/departement08_GB.htm
http://gb.ardennes.com/home/things-to-see-and-do/activities/cycling-in-the-ardennes
‘Fly’ with the longest zip-wire in northern France
I was hoisted horizontal over a steep cliff, my hands on the edge of a platform and a French woman about to jerk the cord holding me back from the abyss. I’ll be honest: I was nervous. But the cord ripped off and then I was flying high over the Meuse River, picturesque houses, small dams at 70mph – it was thrilling, beautiful and serene, the wind whipping by with surprising force. At the Terraltitude climbing park in Fumay we did the Fantasticable zipwire solo but they also have dual/side-by-side rides. There are also a high-ropes course, a small playground for children, a 20m bungee jump platform, paintball, and more. I’d love to combine the zipwire with one of the other aerial activities for a half-day outing.
NOTE: The zipwire is for visitors weighing 35-125 kilos and you can do a double ‘ride’, depending on weight.
TerrAltitude
08170 Fumay
https://www.terraltitude.com/en
Jump in at the Lake of the Vieilles Forges
This natural marine reserve has a Blue Flag beach with paddle boats, canoeing, pedalos, catamarans along with a café. This area is popular with families — bring your picnic, your swimming costume, your sand bucket, your fishing gear — even your tent if you fancy camping on the reserve. There’s a lifeguard from mid-June to mid-September. https://www.champagne-ardenne-tourism.co.uk/discover/lakes-champagne-ardenne/lakes-ardennes
Get medieval at Sedan
This city is famous for having one of the largest and most impressive castles in Europe, the Chateau fort de Sedan. It was built in 1424 and added to over the centuries. Its soaring defensive walls, arches, small passages, and lookout points show how life was lived within its boundaries. In May it hosts a medieval festival in May which features historical camps, reenactments, music and special kids’ activities and a traditional evening torchlight procession with knights, courtiers, musicians and perfomers. Plus you can stay overnight in the castle hotel, within the historic walls. For British visitors the hotel can seem a little uneven – there were tea and coffee-making facilities in the room but no robe or slippers, our meal in the dramatic restaurant was somewhat disappoint both in the quality of the food and the service. But I loved my room, which overlooked the courtyard and had a well-appointed bathroom with separate loo. Off the lobby is a casual bar and a pool table tucked into a brick nook.
Play the French way with little ones
If you’ve got younger kids (ages 2 – 12) the Vendresse leisure park is a great combination of nature park and attraction. There are four outdoor playgrounds including a small obstacle course, archery, a water play area, fishing, and the opportunity to experience and learn about a giant blast furnace in the Magic of Fire show. Grab lunch on the terrace overlooking the water and of course say hello to the park mascot Bébart, a giant sturgeon.
https://www.domaine-de-vendresse.fr
Disclosure: I visited the French Ardennes as part of a press trip. My food, accommodation and activities were covered by my hosts to showcase the region. All opinions here are my own and I’ve only included elements I loved.
More great French destinations for families
Visit Puy du Fou — the French theme park that will blow your mind
10 tips for visiting Puy du Fou
The secret delights of Moliets, a surfing and active holiday on the beach
Cool insider places to shop in Reims
Have you been to the Ardennes? What appeals most to you from this list?
Being John Malkovich!! One of my favourite films ever. And now I won’t be able to think back to that museum without linking it with the film…. thank you 🙂
Ha ha. Yes! It’s fantastic when great destinations and great films collide! x
I really liked the cycle ride down the Trans Ardennes path. So scenic and easy riding too ;D
I couldn’t agree more!
I’d love to take the kids down that path for a cycle. It look like a fab part of france that I’ve not explored.
Yes, perhaps not the flashiest area of France but so much to offer!
Wow, I would never have considered the Ardennes, but there’s so much to do – my teens would love it. Though I might lose my youngest to the comic book store for a while!
I think it has that great balance of fun, pretty surroundings, a couple of unusual bits, activities and food they will like!
It’s amazing how easy it is to overlook somewhere like this, practically on the doorstep. Love the sound of that medieval festival too!
I’ve never been to that area of France but it looks fantastic – the cycling sounds great as does the puppet museum.