Dining at the new Le George, Four Seasons Paris

For years I’ve wanted to visit the Four Seasons George V in Paris. It’s long been one of the swishest hotels in fashionable Paris and a glamorous place to stay since it opened in 1928. In 1999 the Four Seasons group took it over and built a reputation on excellence, hosting the Madonnas and Mick Jaggers of the world, with Michelin-starred dining and world-renown floral arrangements by creative director Jeff Leatham. It’s consistently named as one of the top hotels in the world.

This October it added to its existing dining options – the Michelin-starred Le Cinq and the lounge La Galerie – by introducing Le George. On a recent weekend in Paris, my husband and I went as a couple for lunch to try it. I figured, if it’s good enough for Madge, it’s worth stopping by. Also, we were invited by the hotel to come to Le George as its guests.

The French Riviera meets Northern Italy

Le George acknowledges the way we like to eat now, with sharing platters and Mediterranean-style flavours. Think the French Riviera meets Northern Italy. The Tuscan chef Marco Garfagnini uses no cream or butter and the result is delicious dining with intense, clean flavours, with all the sophistication apparent throughout the hotel.

 

The look

While the restaurant bills itself as more “casual” than two-star Le Cinq, don’t expect a flip-flop-and-jeans atmosphere. There is all the Four Seasons elegance, but here with modern touches. Under classical-themed bas-reliefs and next to traditional crystal vases overflowing with white orchids, sculptural calla lilies the colour of blood tilt at steep angles from four-foot-tall square vases. When you settle into a Louis Quinze chair under the vaulted ceiling, you’re served by a charming young staff, the women in sleek dresses, the men in open-collared shirts and two-button suits so sharp they could deliver paper cuts.

Like Le Cinq on the opposite side, you have a view of the chic courtyard, draped with fuchsia-coloured air plants and greenery formed into architectural shapes. We sat in the window, bathed in light, for our lunch.

The food

If you can, put yourself in the hands of the chef and get the tasting or “Flavours” Menu, because you may not be able to predict what you’re going to love. Time and again throughout our lunch I was surprised at how modest descriptions concealed revelatory dishes.

We started with an amuse-bouche of tiny fried shrimp — delicious, pale and tender – Parmesan crisps and rosemary bread. Then we went onto the sharing plates.

 

 

 

 

I had my eye on the yellowtail kingfish crudo with lemon from the moment we sat down, but the sea bream crudo and tomato that it was served alongside had me practically licking the plate.

The onion tarte tatine could easily be passed over for something with a more eye-catching description. Don’t do it. This delicate, carmelized half onion, set on a flaky base, was one of the highlights of the meal. Sweet and savoury, satisfying yet light – who knew the humble oignon could reach such heights?

Other highlights were the large langoustine, served on spinach with a truffle dressing and a spray of crispy fried leeks, sole with basil and vinegar sauce and an amazing cheese crème brulee, served with clean mandarin sorbet.

As the meal drew to a close, pudding arrived: semi-confit apple with ginger, mascarpone cream and milk ice cream as well as a chocolate tarte – its dark reddish interior reminiscent of foie gras, its top as dark and glassy as a sorceress’s enchanted mirror.

Location

The hotel is in the 8th arrondissement, off the Champs Élysées, about a 10-minute walk from Arc de Triomphe Metro station. It sits in the Golden Triangle – Paris’s most upscale shopping district, peppered with designer brands.

 

Family-friendly factor

When we visited, the children there included two grown sons dining with their parents, and a baby still in its pram accompanied by its young parents. (I don’t think the baby was eating.) The other diners were couples.

The atmosphere is refined – only school-age children mature enough to sit still and enjoy flavours like truffle, oxtail, saffron and crudo fish would enjoy the experience. I can imagine my 16-year-old stepson relishing the novel tastes and enjoying the grown-up atmosphere; our 11-year-old daughter would struggle to identify dishes she wanted to eat, even though she’d probably love most of them once she tried them.

 

 

The verdict

For me this was the perfect introduction to the Four Seasons George V. The menu was truly inspired and the smaller portions meant we could sample a wider range of dishes. Le George is also a great option for those who already love the George V and are looking for a new way to experience its glamour.

Combine dinner or lunch with a stroll in the 8th arrondissement, taking in classic sights. There’s the Arc de Triomphe when you exit the Metro, the bustle on the Champs Élysées, the delectable window shopping at Prada, Jil Sander, Chloe, Dior, Hermes and more, a walk to the Seine to look up the river at the Tour Eiffel…. The result: A delicious experience that’s modern and traditional at one of the most desirable hotels in Paris.

In other words, a perfect Parisian day.

My star rating:

5/5 – ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

Le George
Four Seasons George V
31, avenue George V
75008 Paris France
le.george@fourseasons.com / +33 (1) 49 52 72 09
Starters from €9, larger plates to share from €28. Flavours Menu €110 per person, 2 person minimum

Disclosure: Jenography was hosted by the Four Seasons, with the cost of our meal covered. All opinions are my own.